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The inspiration:
You could say Christina Ricci introduced the goth look to the mainstream in 1991's remake of The Addams Family; with her middle-parted dark pigtails and ghostly complexion, she became the poster child for pouty angst.But it was perhaps Brandon Lee's starring turn in the film version of The Crow that truly brought goth beauty to the big screen. Lee donned stringy black centre parted strands and graphic black-on-white make up as the undead vigilante spawned from the 80's comic book series of the same name.
Then there was The Craft, in which a group of young Hollywood hotties gave underworld worship a new kind of sex appeal. Fairuza Balk's pencil-thin brows, matte berry lip, kohl-stained eyes and multiple piercings epitomise 90's goth.
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McGrath established the look that would define the season backstage at Gucci. "Dark romance" is how she described the models' peroxided brows and deep berry lips. The innovative use of the light brows prevents the period look traditionally created from a red lip and full, dark brow. This is an opinion that a number of other high-profile make up artists bought into.
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McGrath's "lip noir" bloodstained pouts were ever changing;
#1 : A slick of high-shine gloss created a lacquered effect at Viktor & Rolf and Yves Saint Laurent
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#2 : Application of ebony, grey and brown pigments to lips at other shows made for an entirely different, more gothic narrative. To compliment Tomas Maier's moody Bottega Veneta collection, she used an eyeliner rather than lip liner, to rim lips before layering them with burgundy pigments - creating a black cherry finish
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Lisa Butler, make up artist backstage at Emilio Pucci, advised that nothing good can come from reviving goth make up in a literal way,
"Don't start wearing black lipstick; it's very unflattering" Butler
She instead advised that black lip balm can be surprisingly becoming,
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To recreate this look at home, blend MAC Lipmix in Black with its clear Lip Conditioner, Butler compared the custom tint to the "1980s Shiseido lipsticks that were very weak in pigment but gave a little bit of darkness".
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Lucia Pieroni - a minimalist make up artist with maximal appeal
"I'm obsessed with lips at the moment", Lucia Pieroni told style.com backstage at Rochas.
For the AW show she administered velvety red pouts after engineering a few of the most impressive mouths of the SS collections earlier in the year, from fluoro pink at Giles to a glossy wine at Jonathan Saunders to an electric cerise at Missoni. The precise applications were tailored and tweaked just so for individual models,
"When you're doing someone's make up, it's about what brings out their features, what makes them look more beautiful" Pieroni
Pieroni, who is approaching 25 years in the industry has been adapting her technique to suit different faces since she picked up a make up brush on a whim in the 1980's. Pieroni grew up as a fine artist and still thinks of herself as one,
"I don't love make up that much but I love creating" Pieroni
Her unique approach to beauty, which favours understatement over theatrics, keeps the innovative make up star in demand with the fashion crowd of Hollywood.
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What you will need:
Shiseido Lacquer Rouge in Nocturne/RD607
Inspired by Japanese laquerware, one coat infuses intense colour and deep lustre
Shiseido Perfect Rouge in Mystery/RD613
A new formula that provides true intense colour with all day hydration - blending effortlessly for a luxurious finish
Shiseido Smoothing Eyeliner Pencil in Black/BK901
True intense colour, long-lasting and smudge proof, this eyeliner glides on smoothly and softly and the sponge tip applicator enables easy blending
Dolce & Gabbana Ultra Shine Lipgloss in Aqua
Sensual and tempting, this lip gloss imparts a lacquered effect for the lips. The professional brush ensures perfect application.
